Frequently Asked Questions
What owners, dealers, and mobile techs ask us most.
Before You Book the Job
My camper is not leaking. Is waterproofing worth doing now?
That is exactly the right time. Sealing a sound envelope is a coating job. Sealing one that has already let water into the laminate is a reconstruction job with a coating at the end of it. The cost difference is usually an order of magnitude, and the deciding factor is whether the wood in the wall is still dry.
How do I know what my roof is made of?
Press a fingernail into it. Black and slightly soft with a chalky residue on your finger is EPDM. White, firm, and slick is TPO. Hard, glossy, and one continuous piece with no seams is fiberglass. Ribbed and metallic is aluminum. All four take the system — the prep differs, not the product.
Can this go over a roof I already coated with something else?
If the old coating is soundly bonded, yes — clean it, scuff it, and prime with 7001. Pick at an edge with a putty knife first. If it lifts in sheets or comes off with the pressure washer, it has to be removed. A membrane is only as strong as its bond to whatever is underneath it.
How long does a whole-camper job take?
Most truck campers, pop-ups, and single-axle towables are a one-day spray after prep. Prep — cleaning and cutting out failed sealant — is often the longer half. Larger towables and fifth wheels run two days. The unit is tack-free within a minute of the last pass and can go back outside the same afternoon.
Weather, Storage & Long-Term Performance
Will it handle winter storage and snow load?
Yes. Service range runs to −40°F, so the membrane stays flexible rather than going glassy and cracking when the deck flexes under snow load or during a freeze-thaw cycle. This is where rigid acrylic and asphaltic roof coatings most commonly fail on stored units.
Does standing water hurt it?
No. It is a fully adhered, non-breathable membrane — water on top of it has nowhere to go. Ponding behind an AC shroud or in a slight roof sag is a cosmetic issue and a dirt issue, not a leak risk.
Will it fade or chalk in the sun?
Aromatic polyurea chalks and dulls with long UV exposure. It is cosmetic — the waterproofing and physical properties are unaffected. If appearance matters on a show unit or a dealer lot, ask us about an aliphatic topcoat over the Alasta Seal.
Do I still have to inspect and re-caulk every spring?
That is the point of the system. There are no sealant joints left in the coated area to inspect. We do still recommend an annual walk-around for physical damage — a branch strike, a new accessory hole drilled by a previous installer — but the twice-a-year caulk maintenance goes away.
Materials, Equipment & Cost
Can I spray this myself?
Alasta Seal is a plural-component material and needs a proportioner with a heated hose — Graco Reactor E-20 or E-30 class or equivalent. It is not a roll-on product. If you do not have a rig, we can point you to an applicator or talk to you about what it takes to add the capability.
How much material does a camper take?
At 100% solids, one gallon yields 1,604 mil-sq-ft — about 32 sq ft at a 50-mil spec. A 24-ft towable with roughly 200 sq ft of roof runs 7–8 gallons for the deck, plus material for detail build-up at flanges and edges. Send us the length and we will do the math.
Do I really need all three products?
Yes, and skipping one is the most common cause of failure we get called about. Super Orange Cleaner removes the wax and plasticizer that block adhesion. 7001 bonds across the different materials on a camper roof and stops bleed-through. Alasta Seal is the membrane. Each one is doing something the other two cannot.
Do you sell to individuals or only to shops?
Both. We ship nationwide to owners, shops, dealers, and mobile RV techs. If you are buying for a service department or running units regularly, mention your region and volume and we will include wholesale pricing and applicator support details.
Still Have a Question?
Ask us. You will get an answer from someone who has sprayed campers, not from a script.
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